The Super Simple DMT Extraction Guide

Disclaimer: I am not promoting illegal drug use. I do not condone the use of this guide where DMT extraction is illegal. I do not condone the use of DMT outside of a legal or traditional context. This guide is for harm reduction purposes.

DMT is known as ‘The Spirit Molecule’ – and for good reason. DMT is one of the most powerful psychedelics on the planet, naturally occurring in many species of plants, and is thought to be released in tiny amounts in mammal brains. Although the issue is controversial, it’s also possible that the release of natural DMT is a factor in out-of-body experiences or spiritual states.

DMT is a molecule that mimics the neurotransmitter serotonin, much like the other classic psychedelics LSD and psilocybin. DMT’s psychological effects are mostly due to its binding to the 5-HT2A receptor, which is found mostly in areas of the brain associated with high-level cognition: self-awareness, emotions and introspection.

When smoked or injected intravenously, DMT causes a very rapid, very intense psychedelic experience which lasts a few minutes. Users report the feeling of being ripped from their bodies, and thrown through space at incredible speeds. DMT produces intense visual and auditory hallucinations of otherworldly landscapes, hidden dimensions and god-like beings. It often produces deep introspection in its users, allowing the revisitation of past memories and providing a fresh perspective on life.

DMT can also be ingested in the form of the ancient psychedelic brew ayahuasca, which is drunk in traditional healing ceremonies throughout South America. This experience is significantly different from that of smoked or injected DMT, lasting several hours rather than several minutes, and often causing vomiting and diarrhea. Despite the relatively unpleasant sounding experience, ayahuasca has been associated with a variety of therapeutic benefits, including the treatment of depression.

Here, I want to provide you with a detailed guide on how to procure DMT-containing plants, and how to extract this powerful psychedelic compound for personal use.

dmt extraction

Where to get DMT-containing plants

DMT is illegal worldwide, but the legality of DMT-containing plants varies. In many places, it’s possible to order DMT-containing plants online.

This guide for DMT extraction is specific for the bark of the Mimosa hostilis root, as this is the most commonly purchased DMT-containing plant. It usually comes as a course powder, shown here:


Mimosa hostilis root bark can be bought online from various vendors, but may not be able to be shipped to your country if there are restrictions on DMT-containing plants:

Although this guide is specific for M. hostilis, the extraction should work with any DMT-containing organic material – you just need to make sure you adjust the quantity of starting material depending on how much DMT is present in the species of plant you’re using.

Another popular DMT-containing plant is Psychotria viridis, which is used in traditional ayahuasca brews. It is also known as Chacruna to indigenous peoples.

If you are patient, you can grow your own DMT-containing plants from seeds, which are often not regulated to the same extent as plants. An example is Reed Canary Grass seeds, which can be purchased online in some countries.

The DMT-containing plant market is always changing, so keep an eye out for new appearances. Here is a list of some popular DMT-containing plants, many of which could be available through online vendors to your country.

The chemistry of DMT extraction (simplified)

This is a simplified explanation of what’s happening during the chemistry of DMT extraction. Skip ahead for the step-by-step instructions!

The most common technique is called an ‘acid/base extraction’, but it’s pretty complicated. We’ve decided to talk you through the ‘straight to base’ extraction technique, which is a little easier. Here’s the outline of the chemistry:

Your DMT containing plant is ground into a powder and mixed with a base, most commonly sodium hydroxide (NaOH). This dissolves the plant matter, leaving you with DMT molecules floating around in a base solution.

The next step is to get the DMT out of this base solution. Luckily there’s an easy way of doing this; the base solution is charged (polar), but the DMT molecules aren’t (non-polar). This means that adding a non-polar solvent will attract the DMT molecules out of the polar base solution. This non-polar solvent (now containing the DMT) forms a separate layer from the base solution, and can be siphoned off from the rest of the solution.

The final step involves getting the DMT molecules out of the non-polar solvent, which can be done by evaporation or freezing.


The simplified chemistry of the “Straight to Base” extraction method

Step-by-step DMT extraction

Adapted from Noman’s tek on the DMT-nexus.

Please read the guide thoroughly and make sure you understand the process before attempting it.


  • DMT-containing plant such as Mimosa hostilis root bark (Can be purchased here.)
  • Water
  • Lye (granulated sodium hydroxide)
  • Vinegar (for safely cleaning up Lye spills)
  • Naphtha VM&P (if unavailable, 40-60 Petroleum Ether can be used)


  • Personal safety: fume mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves
  • Grinder or blender that is capable of crushing ice
  • Glass mixing jar – with a wide mouth and tight fitting lid, around a litre or larger (depending on how much plant material you are starting with)
  • Collection jars with lids x4 (glass jelly/jam jars will do)
  • Coffee filters
  • Rubber spatula
  • Freezer
  • Pipette
  • Eyedropper


  • Cut and blend your plant material until it’s as fine as you can get it – wear a mask to avoid breathing in the powder.
  • Slowly add your lye to your water a tablespoon at a time, mixing until dissolved, in your mixing jar. For 50g Mimosa hostilis bark, use 750ml water and 50g of lye. NOTE: lye can cause chemical burns and should be treated with care. Neutralise any spills with vinegar. Wear gloves and safety glasses.
  • Add your powdered plant to the jar, tightly close the lid, shake thoroughly and then leave for about an hour.



  • Add your naphtha to the mixing jar: for 50g Mimosa hostilis bark, use 50ml naphtha.
  • Put the lid back on your mixing jar and gently mix it for about a minute, turning it upside down a few times. Don’t shake it, as this will make it hard to separate out the two layers later.
  • Set down your mixing jar and allow the two layers to separate.
  • Repeat this gentle agitation a few more times.
  • Once the layers have separated after your final agitation, use your pipette to move the top (clear) layer into one of your collection jars. This contains your DMT. Try to avoid taking any of the darker, bottom layer, as this contains nasty stuff you don’t want carried over.
  • Add more naphtha to the mixing jar and repeat the above steps three more times to get every last remaining bit of DMT out of the base solution.
  • Optional – leave the last batch of naphtha in the mixing jar for a couple of days to get the maximum amount of DMT from the base solution.
  • Put all four of your collection jars (containing DMT in a naphtha solution) in the freezer and leave overnight.



  • The freezer should have made your DMT crystallise in your collection jars. Pour the solutions through a coffee filter to collect the DMT. The naphtha can be saved and reused in future extractions.
  • NOTE: many people report that DMT crystals are not visible after freezing. Sometimes they will just be suspended in the naphtha, and will appear after you pour the naphtha through the filters. However, if your freezer is not cold enough, it may take extra time for the crystals to form. You can leave your collection jars in the freezer for longer to try and reach a colder temperature.
  • Use your rubber spatula to get every last bit of naphtha solution out of the collection jars.
  • Carefully lay out your coffee filters to dry. When dried, this DMT powder is ready to smoke, but can be refined further in the optional step below.
  • Many people find that their DMT remains stuck to the side of the jars – if there’s nothing on your coffee filters, check the insides of the jars for crystals.



  • Put your DMT powder in a small glass container.
  • Put your solvent (either naphtha or heptane) in another, separate glass container. You will need about 25ml of solvent for every gram of DMT powder.
  • Carefully place both glass containers into a pan of hot water, so their contents start to heat up. NOTE: your solvent will give off flammable fumes, so DO NOT use a gas stove or have open flames around.
  • Use an eyedropper to add tiny bits of your hot solvent to the DMT powder. Swirl the glass container around and keep adding solvent until all the DMT is dissolved. Try to use as little solvent as you can get away with.
  • Take the pan of water off the heat, and leave it to cool down to room temperature.
  • Take the glass container with your dissolved DMT powder, now at room temperature, and put it in the fridge.
  • When it has cooled down, move the container into the freezer and leave for a few hours.
  • You can now filter out your refined DMT crystal using a coffee filter. This process can be repeated for even greater purity.


The Quick Version

Adapted from Lazyman’s tek on the DMT-nexus

For those of you that don’t like the look of all those steps, and just want to get your DMT out of your plant as quickly as possible (without worrying about purity or yield), here’s a simpler protocol:


  • DMT-containing plant such as Mimosa hostilis root bark
  • Water
  • Lye (granulated sodium hydroxide)
  • Vinegar (for safely cleaning up Lye spills)
  • Naphtha VM&P (if unavailable, 40-60 Petroleum Ether can be used)


  • Personal safety: safety goggles and rubber gloves
  • Large ceramic mixing bowl (5L)
  • Potato masher
  • Large measuring jug (2L)
  • Large glass baking dish
  • Fan


  • Break up 400-500g of Mimosa hostilis root bark and put it in a mixing bowl. Make sure the bark only fills half the bowl.
  • Slowly add 200g of lye to 2-3L of water. NOTE: lye can cause chemical burns and should be treated with care. Neutralise any spills with vinegar. Wear gloves and safety glasses.
  • Add your lye solution into the mixing bowl with the root bark. Wait an hour.
  • Use your potato masher to stir and mash up your root bark for 20-30 minutes.
  • Pour 250ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes.
  • Let the solvent separate out to the top of the mixture for a few minutes.
  • Pour the top, clear solvent layer off into your glass baking dish. Avoid getting any of the lower, dark layer in the dish.
  • Evaporate the solvent by blowing air from your fan across the baking dish.
  • The remaining powder is your smokeable DMT.

How do I know the purity of my extracted DMT?

All you have to worry about when you make your own DMT is how efficient you’ve been in following the instructions. If you’ve used poor quality ingredients, or done a messy job (i.e. carried over some of the base solution by accident), you may end up with more impurities in your DMT powder. This can be unpleasant to smoke.

There’s a myth that the colour of DMT powder tells you its purity – this isn’t true, as there are a number of factors that contribute to the colour of DMT powder. Generally, if your powder is white, yellow, red or brown, it is safe to smoke. If it is green or blue, something has gone wrong in your extraction and you should try again.

Alternative extraction guides

As mentioned earlier, many extraction protocols use an acid/base extraction method, which we haven’t covered here as the straight-to-base method is a lot simpler. However, if you are interested in being extremely thorough and want to try an acid/base extraction, there is a large selection of guides here on the DMT-nexus.

Safety information

DMT is illegal in most places. I don’t condone breaking the law or using DMT outside a legal and traditional context. If you do decide to take DMT, make sure you research its effects and risks.

DMT is a very powerful psychedelic and should be treated with respect. You should understand how best to prepare for a psychedelic experience, and integrate it afterwards.

Be aware of your dosage! A recommended first-time dose of smoked DMT powder is 15mg.

When following these extraction guides, make sure to understand the process before you start. If you are using a DMT-containing plant other than Mimosa hostilis, make sure you are aware of the differences and adjust your procedure accordingly. Always wear rubber gloves and safety goggles, and a dust mask if you are grinding up plant matter.

If using lye (sodium hydroxide), avoid getting it on your skin, and always wear safety goggles. If you get it on your skin, wash it off with copious amounts of water (and ideally use vinegar too, if it’s within reach, to neutralise the lye). If you get it in your eye, run your eye under tap water for at least 20 minutes and see a doctor. If you spill a large amount, neutralise it with vinegar before cleaning it up. When adding lye to water, add it slowly and mix well.

481 thoughts on “The Super Simple DMT Extraction Guide

  1. Amazing recipe got my MHRB and got cooking it was fairly easy however time consuming but very cheap I yielded about a .35 of a gram from 50 g of ingredients. One tiny scrape of the pile into a dry bubble pipe and one puff later I saw two monsters tried to run away but the whole room was black but they were cartoonish I don’t know why they scared me now, it lasted about 20-30 seconds then I was back standing by my bed. The trip was really intense and that was the first time I had ever lost touch with my actual setting. I have a lot more so I’m saving it also a lot more MHRB about 450 g. Going to try the acid base extraction method next. Also worth mentioning I used Mexican root bark. I’ve read it’s among the weakest possibly explaining my low yield. Brazilian is apparently the strongest and that’s on the way to me now.


  2. Hi, how much would I need to adjust if using acacia acuminata narrow phyllodes?

    First timer and looking for a simple extraction but everything seems to be for either mimosa or confusaJe


    • Take your container containing the solvent and the lye and run it under hot water until you see separation. This can take anywhere from 5-30 minutes. You could run it under the sink or the faucet in your bathtub. You can also place it in a hot water bath, this will achieve the same result, which is separation. For some reason, heating the liquid mixture increases the rate of the air bubbles popping.


  3. I have followed this procedure to the letter multiple times, and I have not been able to extract a single spec of DMT. What am I doing wrong? Is there anything missing from these instructions that I’m not doing? I’ve wasted 250g of mimosa hostilis so far, without pulling a single tenth of mg of DMT.


  4. I’ve been using a saltification process which has been working well but my last 3 batches weren’t right and the only factor was the brand of naphtha I used so I figured this was the case, does that sound right cause I just bought a half g of some cause I was out of mhrb and not only is this yellow bit it has the same effect as my “bad batches” am I right in assuming they used the incorrect naphtha too cause this guy thinks I’m crazy saying this shit is no good. Needless to say I’m only extracting from now on.


  5. I just got done reading my last post on here which was a month ago and after a month I am answering my own questions.I changed my bark from mimosa to acacia.Acacia got me hooked.I don’t mind the defat stage.the nmt is also wonderful.and I don’t know about the rest of you but the effects of mimosa is very different than acacia. Mimosa leaves so happy to be back its crazy.last night I thought that was it.I have been vaping acacia and have had some of the most spectacular and interesting experiences.on mimosa its kinda scary.last night I honestly thought I died.I felt my body rip apart and I knew I was gone.I was totally gone in messed up grid looking world that I did not want to spend an eternity in.I was resisting so bad and praying I could return back to my body.acacia is gentle and happy.still glad I got both and some nmt.I did 4 acid boils on 100 grams of acacia.on the second boil I added 80g of no iodine salt dissolved into the boil.I thought I messed up because I added into boil and not right before basifing.I think it was a great mistake.then I added 100g calcium hydroxide.I was concerned because lime had a hard time dissolving.solution was jet black and pulled with 100ml of naphtha.I was amazed after freeze precipitation the unbelievable amounts of huge clumps of pure white crystals.I have pulled 5 times and am still getting pure white clumps of crystals and the goo is so clear you have to put the dish to light to even see try adding the salt to the boil.I think that helped me and I am wondering if using calcium hydroxide instead of lye is why the crystals are white and not yellow.I also never defatted it either.anyways sorry for writing a book here just hope it helps somebody.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hey I noticed that I couldn’t smoke it as much as I would have liked due to anxiety from intensity of previous trip. I looked it up, and someone had mentioned somewhere about listening to soothing binaural beats on YouTube to help saddle your trip.. I found doing this to be a complete game-changer with my psychedelic, self-therapy.


    • Hey I noticed that I couldn’t smoke it as much as I would have liked due to anxiety from intensity of previous trip. I looked it up, and someone had mentioned somewhere about listening to soothing binaural beats on YouTube to help saddle your trip.. I found doing this to be a complete game-changer with my psychedelic, self-therapy.


      • I totally get that… Since getting into mushies an acid as a teenager, I’ve found certain music ‘ anchors’ me to a certain vibe/mood in a positive way. I religiously put on ‘fearless’ by pink Floyd when using DMT. It just soundtracks the experience perfectly


      • Push through and try to be quick, hold long as possible and swallow into stomach. I know the felling but get through it and if you do this you will have only a second or two of that feeling.


      • Forgot to add one more thing and that’s to aim for more then 3 and quick is the wrong word. Important to hold it in and when you take another thats when you are quick, those feelings will be gone and if you have someone to make you more comfortable and could help hold smoking device that will help. There calm diameter and peaceful support will help a lot. More you take in and longer you hold it in the easier it us.


    • I hadn’t said anything but l thought the product from the mimosa extraction I did was a little scary too. I took 3 hits and didn’t get the astral travel experience. I remained aware that l was in my living room through the intense hallucinations. There was an entity present. Female that seemed like a combination of Aztec and Egyption and she was in a bad mood. That’s what was kinda scary. Not scary enough to keep me away.


      • Set and setting, mentally and physically, very important, and just remember, as soon as you take the first hit, your now are along for the ride so if you have to remind yourself that your ok, that what your experiencing is ok and enjoy the ride


      • I’m fairly new to this I’ve probably done five or six different types or should I say gotten five or six different bits from different people. The last bit I had there was an entity. I kind of pegged it as some sort of like a big fat stinky goblin. I never saw it but I knew it was there and it was there that seem to make sure that I was learning from my trip. So in my perspective his presence was there to make sure I found positivity or should I say found positive solutions within my personal self determination. Now looking back the other times before this last batch I had there was no entity but I was convinced that the entity was a part of the DMT experience. Definitely not enough to keep me away and really cool looking back and reading your post now realizing that this entity is not going to be in every experience yet only specific ones. Thanks for the share very interesting!


    • What’s the best way to defat acacia. Especially the leaves and twigs I got so much plant matter in a pull I couldn’t even taste dmt. How do I prevent…. How long are the boils and what ratio do u have water vinegar


  6. Thank you for this guide, I have successfully extracted it several times, I always always used a glass baking pan, simply because I did not have four mixing jars, but now I’m wondering why is it necessary for 4 jars for only 50 g? Does it do better with less solution in each jar?


    • I was wondering the same. After my first extraction attempt I only had 1 jar with not much naptha in it. Didnt get any crystals.
      Just attempted again and each tume I eztracted the naptha a added another 50g naptha to lye~rootbark solution and mixed and extracted again. Kept doing this until I have 2 full jam jars of naptha. In freezer now, hopefully crystals tomorrow!


  7. So we extracted everything to a t, put it in the freezer overnight and the only visible DMT we are seeing this morning is on the plastic wrap I covered it with, is this normal or did I screw up?


    • You’re doing something wrong. Do you mean the cling film to seal the container? Otherwise the crystals should just form in the lighter fluid, not be anywhere else.. make sure container TOTALLY dry and sealed. Any water in the naptha will ruin the process.


  8. You list vinegar as an ingredient but make never mention of it’s use throughout the process. I’ve read && re-read so either I’m blind or it’s just listed && not used


    • Anything can be snorted. It’s not always a good idea. In this case the answer has to be no. It would be the same as eating it. Not gonna work. That’s layman’s terms but you get it, right?


    • The absolute BEST, EL NUMERO UNO, Big Poppa, El Grande Tortilla, king of kings method is to use a Vaporizer that has built-in blower that utilizes HOT AIR to vape the candy. The next best is a BIG Dabber…Preferably silicone body. NEVER TOUCH OPEN FLAME TO THE CANDY (not even a bic) It not only burns it upon contact….OPEN FLAME DE-ACTIVATES THE MOLECULE.


      • That’s a lie!!! Open flame does not deactivate anything. The most intense crazy trips I’ve been on is when I put it on top of a bowl of weed and put direct flame to it. IDK why you would say something that has no truth to it.


      • I have tried everything out there and then I tried the vapor genie! Omfg, 4 stainless steel screens with a nice bowl of quality herb with the pure white candy on top that I just pulled off the jar will send you up over the fence to the other side everytime. You’re welcome 😊


      • killryno@gmail would you please give me clues to the source. I’m looking for my 3rd supplier now in just as many months due to lack of quality in consistent tek. I could really use a good recommendation. I am In the us but it doesn’t have to be. Thank you in advance ! Several folks in the healing process thank you with me.


  9. Thanks for the tek. I believe I had a succesful extraction. Its looking pretty yellow to dark yellow, tho I have not done any refinement. Does that sound about right ? Thanks again.


  10. Is there a better DMT containing plant than Hawaiians ACACIA CONFUSA ROOT BARK? Also is there something better than lab grade naphtha for extraction?


      • Hi, I’m new here, but I really like your site and the information you have gathered on entheogens/psychedelics

        I hear what you are saying about the commmon terms “naptha” and “petroleum ether”. You are using them in the colloquial sense,
        But I would like to add that the formal use of these terms by organic chemist utilizing IUPAC terminology is much different.

        A light naphtha is a mixture of many different hydrocarbon compounds. It has an initial boiling point (IBP) of about 35 °C and a final boiling point (FBP) of about 145 °C, and it contains paraffins, naphthenes (cyclic paraffins) and aromatic hydrocarbons ranging from those containing 4 carbon atoms to those containing about 10 or 11 carbon atoms. An example would be a simple saturated aliphatic alkane such as CH3-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH3 (the nonpolar solvent hexane)

        Ethers are a class of organic compounds that contain an ether group—an oxygen atom connected to two alkyl or aryl groups. They have the general formula R–O–R′, where R and R′ represent the alkyl or aryl groups. A example with symmetrical alkyl groups would be CH3-O-CH3 (dimethyl ether)

        In a chemical sense, the terms ether and naptha cannot be used with equivalence.

        Since the product of the extraction being discussed is likely to be ingested by someone…it may be worthwhile to use precise chemical terms to eliminate ambiguity ….and therefore eliminate potentially toxic mistakes.



      • No They Don’t…NOT ANY MORE. New laws prohibit BIG BOX stores from carrying Naphtha. You have to get it from specialty stores like “Painting supply Only ” stores. There are plenty of them around. Just look for “V M & P Naphtha.” (that stands for Varnish Makers & Painters)


      • I called Lowe’s 4 times in 2 weeks looking for it and every time they put me on hold for 30 seconds then said that they don’t have it. I spelled NAPTHA several times each call, included the VM&P distinction and explained it use: Nothing. Rode my bike up there and they had an entire shelf of it. At 15 separate VMP products. Just get out there and look, folks.


      • If your’re in the UK then it can be a nightmare to find Naptha. You wont find it on Amazon but you can find 40/60 Petroleum Ether on Ebay for about £20 for 500ml. The shipping cost to where i am was insane though (£70ish!!!… I do live in a UK dependent offshore island though so pretty remote). I’ve ended up using Newport Lighter Fluid before and still had decent results ~250mg from 50g MHRB.

        Good luck, It’s definitely worth it :o)


  11. I’ve got a question about the mixing of the naphtha with the mimosa-base solution: They don’t want to mix. I saw a couple of cautions about shaking it, but I have also seen a suggestion here in the comments to shake it. How do I know these liquids have been mixed enough? Should the naphtha be taking on a tint?


      • Thanks. I started with MH powdered fine, and it ended up turning into a thick slurry with the water and basification. With the naphtha it behaved like Italian salad dressing. I did end up turning the jar repeatedly and eventually noticed a yellow tinge to the naphtha. That was very encouraging.


      • It’s looking good so far. Many clumps of white on the sides of the container which I’m in the process of drying out. I was originally going to go with the evaporation method, but it has been in the teens where I live. Since I evaporate outside that meant that the liquid was also in the teens, so I have a hybrid going on. I did not expect that since the recommendation is to put it in a kitchen freezer, which typically has a temp around 0 F.


      • A question about color and a question about storage. Apart from doing the tek poorly, what causes the different colors of the product?
        I’ve often heard that the freebase form of chemicals is less stable than the salt form, so if I plan to store it for awhile, would I be better off converting it to a salt?


  12. I was forced to due the quick method the first time and unfortunately am not seeing the clear solvent rise to the top , any ideas what I did wrong?


    • Has it separated out yet? I’ve found that if you agitate the naphtha/mimosa mix too much it takes longer to separate, and may not separate at all. Also, the clear layer can be difficult to see if there is much gunk on the sides of the container.


    • Quick Method?!?…I DON’T LIKE THE SOUND OF THAT…lol How thick is your soup? It should be about the consistency of KFC gravy but a bit thinner. THICK IS BAD…IT WILL TRAP YOUR NAPTHA and hold it prisoner. Unfortunately you “D” is located in that trapped nap. Also you should be heat bathing your naphtha to about 125 – 150 degrees before adding it to your soup. I use a crock pot and meat thermometer. never use open flames for any part of this process as well as the final fun part. “FIRE…BAAAD !!” -Frankenstein


  13. THANK YOU FOR THE DIY INFO! Clear and concise directions from paper to production was an easy translation. I had excellent first time results. I’ve done five extractions with the first two yielding the most finished product which was 1.5 grams. Instead of jars I used 9″ Pyrex cake pan, I doubled the naphtha and use an electric forced air space heater to evaporate the naphtha. I let it just pass over the pan and it worked better than I ever imagined. Also very easy to scrape out all the DMT! Over 2 grams of good shit! Used MHRB. Thanks Again!!


  14. Hello guys,
    I followed the process precisely, i only changed the gramage proportionally, being the first time i decided that less is better.
    I used 20g M.H, 20g lye and 300ml water, and i added 20ml of heptane instead of naphta.
    I used in the end a single glass container with all 4 collections.
    I let the container 2 days in the freezer because i didn’t have time to take it out and filter it. I just checked it after 1 day, looking gooood.
    I was supper amazed to see huge beautiful white crystals, and i was also amazed to see that was a lot of quantity. Surprisingly more than 1G.
    This is a good sign ? I smelled it and it definitely smells like Cha<3
    Should i refine it again ?
    I cant wait to test it 😛
    Pace & love !


    • Teddaz, I like your approach.
      You sound like someone who has a bit of formal training in lab technique.

      Sites like this are interesting, they often present good food for thought.
      But I also tend to do what you seem to be doing; I rework the process using lab grade materials and supplies (and of course double check the chemistry).
      I’ve never really understood why people choose to use things like coffee filters and “naptha” (which doesn’t even have a clear single definition)
      It just creates inconsistent results and possibly contaminated and/or unsafe products.

      Due to the pandemic, just about everyone is shopping online to some degree. Getting good labware and chemicals is no harder than placing an Amazon order.
      Supplies for projects similar to this wouldn’t raise any flags. Sites like the following are easy to find and get supplies from;
      [sites removed – links not allowed in comments]
      (these were just 2 that came up in a search, this is not an endorsement of either site)

      I would like to suggest to the other readers of this site that they consider using at least lab grade, if not USP grade materials if they are planning on ingesting what they make.

      It is a little more expensive, but IMO, the benefits of a clean and consistent process, creating a predictable and reproducible output, and using 100% known ingredients, outweighs the money saved by using jelly jars and paint thinner.



    • Teddaz,

      MH root bark only contains about 1% DMT. Given the extraction method presented, I would estimate about 50% recovery would be a reasonable expectation.
      For a 20g sample of MH root bark, a reasonable conservative estimate would be a yield of 1/10g of pure DMT.
      If your gross yield is more than a gram….it is safe to say that 90% is something other than N,N-Dimethyl-1H-indole-3-ethanamine (N,N-DMT)

      I am just looking into this process so I’m not going to try to guess what else is in your yield, but on the plus side, you may have gotten 100mg of N,N-DMT from the process.



      • Actually it was 0.28g. I changed the scale with a more precise one for jewelry.
        This was before the purification stage. Now its in the freezer 😀
        Sorry for mislead.


      • Ok, so if we want to use pure solvent, what do we get instead of “naphtha”? And what’s an alternative to the mason jars? Thanks


    • More than one g out of 30 g of mhrb powder? I must know more. killryno at gee mail please, I’m searching for a new source of plant materials and considering another species all together. I’m in the states but don’t mind ordering from afar. Plaze halp!!! ❤


  15. I have a question. I bought all of the ingredients ajd I followed the instructions for step 1-3 as best as I could. I don’t believe I’m getting any dmt from the solution after lettting it freeze all night. Is this a common mistake? Should I be looking for specific naptha or lye? I got the minosa hostilis from the website recommendation offered here


  16. thanks for the great tek. i tried some of the molecule i made with it today for the first time, and i’m still surprised at the sheer shamanic power of the experience. i have never before had my interior monologue totally displaced, even when doing LSD or mushrooms. to think that people have been visiting this realm for thousands of years is amazing!


  17. Hello! Can I use Zippo lighter fluid instead of the VM&P Naphta? Heard that alot of people have used Zippo lighter fluid and it had turned out great. Also did an evaporation test on the Zippo ligther fluid and there was minimal to none residue left on the glass pane I did it on. Am I good to go with the Zippo lighter fluid or I need the real VM&P stuff?


    • Re: a good solvent to replace “naptha” “lighter fluid” or whatever in this extraction.

      Do a search for n-Heptane, it is a standardized industrial solvent and one of the main components of all the various fractional distillates of petroleum sold under the trade term “naptha”. There are a lot of suppliers online and it is not something that would put you on a watch list. It is commonly used as a solvent for extracting essential oils from plant materials. (in a chemical sense, it is as “organic” as you can get, in a food production/pop culture sense, it is not “Organic” at all… according to the popular definitions…but I suspect it is widely used in many processes marketed as “organic” possibly even “vegan” since there is little legal over site or quality control in many of those markets)

      For a lot of good information on the chemistry, physical properties, safety, etc. of the solvents and reagents you may be using, there is a free database and search engine provided by the Royal Society of Chemistry that is worth looking at, and probably worth bookmarking.

      Do a search with the keyword ‘ChemSpider’
      The site should be one of the first to come up.



  18. i’m wondering whether regular mason jar lids are acceptable for the collection jars. i got 8oz jam jars. just curious if it would be better to order some stainless steel lids instead of using the standard ones they come with? they’re a little pricey so i’d rather avoid it if unnecessary. thanks.


    • Erin,

      If “kitchen chemistry” is something you want to continue with, you may want to consider buying real lab-ware.

      If you are a hobbyist cook or baker, it is fairly standard to invest in a good set of knives, buy appropriate baking pans, order specialty ingredients..maybe a set of 8oz mason jars…whatever is needed to properly prepare the dishes you wish to prepare.

      I would strongly recommend being at least as diligent with this endeavor. Buy the tools and ingredients you need. Don’t cut corners.

      If you are making a pastry and you make modifications or substitutions, the worst case scenario is a pastry that doesn’t look or taste right.
      With projects like this, a substitution or modification can produce very unpleasant or potentially dangerous outcomes.

      This particular extraction is about as basic as you can get (there is a chemistry pun in there for the geeks), so there are few options for messing it up badly unless you use an inappropriate solvent or a toxic plant. (this is an extremely non-specific extraction, so your your yield will contain a wide variety of compounds from your plant material besides DMT). But overall this is a great first project.

      If you stay with this sort of thing, you will learn more, you will want to improve your final product. If you have success, you will probably look into other methods and other, more complicated projects that may appeal to you as an aspiring psychonaut.

      If you go down that path, you will certainly find the proper lab-ware to be a worthwhile investment…In the same way you would find a good set of cookware a good investment. I’ve never met anyone who regretted buying good pans.

      Don’t make a big investment to start with. Start with a couple basics, such as flasks, a filter unit compatible with your flasks, graduated cylinder, good thermometer etc. Add things like a good scale, lab hotplate/magnetic mixer as you need them. As you learn more and get more experience, you will realize what would helpful to you.

      Take the same approach with “ingredients”, splurge on quality. Bad outcomes in projects like this can be much worse than the “heartbreak of a flat pastry”.
      Use at least as much care. High purity lab grade chemicals, or even better, USP chemicals, are as easy to order online as paint thinner and plumber’s lye.

      Back to your original question about jelly jar lids:
      You are using a rather aggressive non-polar solvent in this extraction. Jelly jars tend to have liners or gaskets of various materials. These are likely to be vulnerable to your solvent, and at least some part of it will end up in your yield. How much plastic do you really want to vaporize and inhale.
      The fumes from many common plastics are quite toxic when vaporized.
      Are these toxic?
      I don’t know…haven’t checked.

      My perspective:
      Why even add that unknown to the possible complications?
      It is simpler just to eliminate it from the equation.



      • hi chiron,

        thanks for your detailed & comprehensive reply. i’m not one to cut corners on supplies, and i fully appreciate the difference quality tools & ingredients make on a final product. i do, in fact, both cook and bake. i have a decent fundamental knowledge of chemistry as well. i inquired about the lids wondering if anyone had specific experience with this issue, especially because the instructions on this page refer to jelly jars being acceptable for collection. these instructions seem detailed enough that if it was a known issue i thought it might be mentioned, or that someone with experience in this exact method might know. thanks again.


      • Thanks Erin,

        Hope I didn’t come across as condescending. That was certainly not the intent.
        It is more about erring on the side of clarity since I’m new here and don’t know where everyone is in terms of experience or knowledge of chemistry.

        In the past, on similar “bio-hacking” or underground chemistry forums (a particular forum on bioregulatory peptides frequented by bodybuilders especially comes to mind) I have seen a lot of bad “Bro-science” and internet rumor presented unquestioningly, and defended aggressively …because that particular protocol or recipe had been around for a while, and if something is repeated enough on the internet, it MUST be true…Right?

        And, as I mentioned previously, it confounds me why someone would be willing to buy lighter fluid in bulk on the internet, but is not willing to order a standardized, pure, lab grade solvent for roughly the same price.

        My suspicion is that it is due the history of these kinds of endeavors.
        Many have been, or are, illegal. People wanted to use materials and reagents from the shelves of hardware stores and grocery stores because they would be untraceable and couldn’t be used as evidence of an illegal activity. Recipes or Tek for various “home brews” were formulated by chemists originally, but converted into recipes that used commonly available ingredients. This was so that supplies for batch of whatever you were cooking up could be assembled quickly and without a paper trail, and the lab could disappear just a quickly.

        This approach has become somewhat of a culture. There often seems to be a sense of pride in using shortcuts and hacks.

        The world and the legal environment has evolved. The ongoing decriminalization of cannabis and psychedelics is changing the game.
        I think it is time to place more emphasis on our role as legitimate explorers, in a legitimate field of scientific inquiry.

        The optics of the “making meth in a bathtub” approach are not good…we have outgrown that. IMO it is simply time to up our game.

        Beyond the optics, a movement toward a more standard lab approach will improve the safety, quality, and reproducibility of our outputs.
        As well as making our communications about processes, methods, materials, and results clearer and easier to compare.

        Re: your question about the safety or known issues with the use of jelly jar lids:

        To be blunt, there is no reason to assume that the person who wrote up the original recipe, that after an unknown number of copies ended up on this site, even considered this.
        Also, there is no compelling reason to assume that the people who have copied the recipe have thought about it differently than you; The information is believed simply “because the instructions on this page refer to jelly jars being acceptable for collection…”

        But your question is quite valid, so:

        To restate my position: There is no reason to include this unknown parameter in the process, eliminate it.

        Another reasonable action would be to find out what materials are used in the mason jar lids and gaskets, and research how they react with your solvents and reagents….but this would require a rather detailed knowledge of the chemistry of materials involved, and this becomes increasingly complex when you are using things like “naptha” and “lighter fluid” which are not simple compounds, but complex fractional distillates, containing a wide variety of petrochemicals that happen to have similar boiling points.

        When you are working with yields that may be measured in milligrams, a few milligrams of contaminate or an unaccounted for reagent might make a big difference in the final product.
        So again, there are a lot of reasons to clean up the process, and no significant advantages to not doing so.

        Also, the philosophy of Science, and the principles of the scientific method are relevant and worth contemplating for those who consider themselves researchers.

        Just my take,
        Your mileage may vary,



      • Chiron,
        I also understand the implications of using complex reagents. I’m not a professional, just in college and excel in chemistry. From a knowledge of balancing equations, i am looking for the cleanest version of lye and naphtha. I’ll be trying to do my own research, but can you recommend for me the optimal lab or higher grade chemicals for extraction with minimal undesired products?
        Also, what proper lab equipment were you recommending to be beneficial for this process?
        I don’t know where/ what to get to help improve the specificity of the extraction and optimize consumability of the product. I don’t want any residue in my product.
        I’d like to breaking bad this backyard process with optimal materials and process. Please help. Ready to listen


      • I appreciate your intent to help – but after I read through your paragraphs, I essentially get a lot of fluff and can’t find the answers I’m looking for: what do I get if I DO want high quality, lab-grade solvents and equipment – specifically. You’ve talked a lot about how “lighter fluid” and “naphtha” are not the best things to search for… ok, so what do I get? I saw you mention “n-Heptane,” is this what I should use instead? Ok, so no mason jars with the gaskets, great – what’s a specific alternative you could recommend for this part? I did reference two links in a comment above which were removed, so I have no clue what you were actually recommending. I appreciate this “straight to base” instruction, but I would like to use the purest solutions and at least non-leaching equipment (eg plastics, etc). Can you offer some specific recommendations?


  19. Can someone clarify for me? I have mimosa trees available to me. Do I need the bark from the actual roots, or the bark from the trunk/branches? Use the entire bark or just the cambium layer? Can it be used fresh or does it need to be dried or dehydrated?


  20. Thank you very this very helpful page.

    I have one question concerning naphtha… would this be suitable??

    Naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated light – SBP3 – CAS 64742-49-0

    Thanks very much.


  21. Hi everyone.
    I have followed this process and had a successful extraction, however the product was quite mild so I have refined it twice which has resulted in a much more satisfactory product that certainly ‘takes’ you to the desired place. 0.03g on a vape was all that was needed for a strong experience.

    I was wondering if it’s worth refining any further?

    Thanks in advance



  22. Hello dear enthusiasts !
    I am wondering what is the most safe and harmonious way to dispose the liquid remained after extraction. Does it affect the nature?
    Where is the safest place to throw it away ?
    To be clear, I refer to the Lye & Water & M.H. powder.
    Please give some handy examples like Toilet, Sink, Outdoor or processes that neutralize the mix in order to be safely disposed and most important in love and respect with nature.
    Super thanks


  23. Hey! I know this hot girl who made a really fantastic, smooth, trippy, indiepop song just for easing you into your first or any DMT trip! Look up “Ami LIME – Deep End (I’m Okay)” on YouTube or wherever you like music to be! I believe this is the song that DMT was made for. Delilah’s death and she loves you (unless you’re super lame) 🌹🪨


  24. Hello chiron, I’ve just now found this site and am very new to this process but am a long time student of everything interesting or chemically recreational and I couldn’t agree more about our need to “up our game” in such endeavors. The days of bathtub crank should be gone with the 90s. We can do so much better. If you would like to discuss anything related to the topic or anything else that for that matter. I would love to listen. You seem very knowledgable and if you be open to passing any of that on I would be forever grateful for any knowledge gained. You can never learn too much. And I apologise for my poor articulation of this message I had a hard time deciding what I want to say or how to say it. My email is itfollows007 at gmail dot com.


  25. Am I supposed to be able to see the crystals in the naptha solution in the freezer? Checked this morning after yesterday’s attempt and couldn’t see any 😔
    Will pour through the filter tomorrow morning to see if anything is there


  26. Quick question about the collection process. Do I need to add another 50 ml each time I go to a new collection jar or do I split the 50 ml between the four jars?


    • You add 50ml naphtha to your large mixing jar (containing the powdered plant), agitate, separate, and then remove the separated top layer into your collection jar. Then you add a fresh 50ml naphtha into the large mixing jar and repeat, using a fresh collection jar.


  27. I’m surprised no one really asked this question…. Does this method get rid of the MEO-DMT??? Could you point out which part of the method ‘gets rid’ of it and why?


  28. Hey everyone!

    I live in Brazil and got my hands on 2 bottles of some genuine Ayahuasca drink. I have taken it several times but I always puke and hate the taste more than anything else in the world. Is it possible to somehow extract the DMT from the liquid so I could smoke it? Does this recipe work even though what I am using is not the plant but the already prepared drink? Thanks a lot!


  29. Product stuck inside collection jars. What is a good method to remove the product from the jars? The little buddies are present and the jars are dry. Scraped a small section with a stainless steel knife. That didn’t do much. Any suggestions how to efficiently remove stuck product from collection jars?
    Thank you very much.


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